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Posted by John on 2 Oct 2011

Well much has happened since last update and many miles or klms have been travelled.  I am currently in Lexington Virginia enjoying a well earned rest-day before the final ‘sprint home. Only 450 klms to go - whoopee!

But back to the update. Those who have been following the blog ill remember I was stuck inn Centreville with rain again whilst under canvas. Well the night we set up camp I disturbed a wasp nest on the ground and they got their revenge by stinging multiple times all around both ankles (they seemed to be attracted to my smelly socks -ha ha). I did not get any serious reaction except annoying itching whilst trying to sleep or whenever I got warm whilst peddling. That all settled down after a few days with no serious problems but that was not to be my only experience with wasps. (see later)

Another thing I forgot to mention is we passed by Abraham Lincoln’s original cottage in Illinois and I will upload the photo later.

Anyway back to the journey

Thursday 29th September

We leave Sebree after a good rest but I knew I had not eaten enough the previous day (or maybe it was the lack of a beer the previous evening!) and I was low on energy most of the day despite munching on ‘energy-bars’ all day. We continued along the official route until Fall of the Rocks (71 miles) and our planned destination was a small town of Sonara. However at Falls after discussions with locals we decided to leave the trail and go an alternative rout on a better route but after about 20 miles I had had enough for the day (even Stu who had offloaded half his panniers to his nephew was ready to stop) and we stopped at Leitchfield (142 klms for the day) and boy oh boy was that a blessing!

We came across this Italian restaurant and I can say without doubt the best meals I have had since leaving home.  I say meals because I had a huge dish of Chicken fettuccine (main course size) followed up by 12oz Rib-eye fillet and veggies. Plus 5 beers! (not a bad night) The body felt good.

Friday 30th September

Well they say the best laid plans of mice and men – well this was the day that proved it. Overnight we had poured over the maps and panned the best alternative routes to get back onto the Trail with the intent of reaching the town of Harrodsburg and approximate distance of 120 klms. We set off on a good cycling day but after 60klms we realize we have misread the map (again). I am not worried as I quickly realize the mistake is hugely in our favour.

The journey might be longer but it is safer on good roads and less sharp hills, but Stu flapped a bit and for a while it affected his cycling as it had not gone as he expected. (Still got to ride to the journey’s end so no point in worrying is my attitude)

I must admit his riding technique has improved considerably and I would like to think I have helped a bit there.

The first 120 klms was good cycling and we stopped off at an interesting little cafe “Suzie O’s”  food was Ok but the interesting thing was the music they where playing and the display of old records they had. How many of you remember L.P’s? Trouble is I remember most of those on display from when they first came out – a real reality test!

Two incidents today – A huge Custard Apple falls out of a tree and luckily I was wearing my helmet (as always -think I need to buy a new one when I get home – it stinks!) but it gave me one hell of a fright.  It was warm and I had my shirt part open to let some cool air in. Unfortunately it let a wasp in and it proceeded to sting me a couple of times. Whats all this with me and wasps in USA?  From now on both mouth and shirt shut so no more flies or wasps!

It was a beautiful sunny afternoon and finally understood why they say Kentucky Blue Grass (It definitely has that  rich hue.)

The last 50+ klms ride into Harrodsburg was tough especially when we missed a turn off to a small road on the route and for the 1st time it felt dangerous as a few young drivers with a hostile attitude came past us. The plan was to camp but instincts warned me not to. Stu was going to spent a night with relatives who live about 30 mins away. I was invited but I declined as I thought he would  enjoy more quality time alone with them and the plan is for a major reunion tomorrow with relatives and friends. Distance for the day 173klms

I find a cheap motel and then wander down to a local eatery and there I have a great evening being entertained by four lovely old ladies (hark at me but they were old compared to me)  There names were Gee Gee, Joyce, June and Martha (who had suffered a stroke 4 yrs earlier but had maintained a wonderfully positive attitude) They wanted to know all about me, Australia and

The ride etc. It was a real fun chat and lots of laughs all round and then at the end of the evening Gee Gee opened her purse and emptied $15 to the cause. I felt embarrassed to accept it but she insisted. It just goes to show that given the opportunity people will always care for others.

Well only 1250 klms to go. Almost feels like we can smell the sea ha ha

Saturday 1st October

Stu returns with his nephew Shaun who offers to take care of the coffin for the day – No second thoughts from me and the bike performs ( or was it me) like a horse that has been fed on oats and then let out of the stable.

It is only going to be a short day (72 klms into Berea where we are meeting up for the reunion with Stu’s family an friends. We take a slight detour onto a safer road. It does not reduce distance or the number of hills but it is safer. And I really enjoy the chance to ride without the “coffin’

Berea is a beautiful city built round the University that was the 1st one committed to educating the poor anad the coloured post civil war. It maintains that committment today. The hotel and many of the business arounfd it are committed to providing employment to the students. They in turn have to commit to approx 15 hours a week.

The whole town has a lovely feel abut it.  I started to wander around but did not get far as I discovered a home-made fudge shop with sooo many flavours t choose from  Sorry caveman diet gone for the day!

Stu’s friend prove to very engaging an make me very welcome and they insist on paying for our meals. Again I find we are in a  ‘dry-town but we enjoy a sly-grog session in the hotel room. Included beer, good wine and a small selection of Bourbons. (Can you believe it? Tennessee and Kentucky are the home of some of the best Bourbons in the world but they cannot drink it!!- Crazy world)

A wondrfull refreshing interlude to the journey and the next morning we set off after breakfast an fond farewells.

Sunday 2nd October

It was a really cool start with frost still n the roofs but a clear day that soon warmed up. The name of the 1st town we head for is Big Hill and very aptly named but it was a good steady climb that allowed you to get into a steady rhymn. I enjoyed it.

Along the way I thought I saw a real live beaver and got excited but i was later told it was something called an Nutrient? Oh well

I was riding through a small town called Vincent and thinking this is a nice friendy place. At the same time I was in a considerable amount of discomfort looking for a pee break. I see these two gentlemn standing at the front of a house and the conversation goes as follows:- ME ” G’day mate. Excuse me- any cahnce of using your toilet?” after a short pause the slow drawn out reply come ” I really don’t think so” So much for ‘friendly -maybe it is the way I am dressed. They may think I am one of their Halloween dolls!

Lunchtime sop at Boonville. now just for eh Australian readers this is not named after our very own David Boone – famous cricketer and beer drinker (he woud not survive in another dry town) but rather afte Danial Boone famous indian fighter and friend of Davey Crocket and who died at the Battle of the Alamo and played by Fess Parker in a movie about 50 yrs ago!

After lunch the day became for difficult as the hills increased and then the planned stop off point had no services so we had to press on another 20 miles to a town called hazard. All in all though a good day (148 klms)

Monday 3rd October

This proved to be the toughest day of the whole ride so far as we make our way into the Appalachian foothills. The start of the day was OK with long steady climbs but  that soon changed with lots of sharp and very nasty climbs that prove that I have to do something about lightening up or getting ride of the coffin. I had to get off and push several times. It was cold and overcast all day woith rain threatening most of the time. I actually rode with my front an rear lights on most of the afternoon. I considered the route selected by the Trans Am as dangerous and unsuitable. It might have been Ok back in 1976 when there was less traffic on the roads but not today. Some of the downhills were very curvey and curves were very poorly signed and had deep open ditches either side of the narrow roads. One slip up and you would be in the ditches and ride over. Having said that I did enjoy the last 7 miles downhill on more open roads. We reached Elkhorn City in the dark

As I leave the local cafe (poor food and yet again a dry town – thank goodness out of Kentucky tomorrow) Stu’s former riding partners walk in. They had ridden the last  2 hrs in total darkness- braver than me in these conditions.

Overnight at the hotel we decide I will remove all non-essential stuff and post it forward to York Town Post Office.. I go to bed quite worried about the next few days through the mountains – will the offload be enough?

Posted on 29 Sep 2011 by John

Monday 26th September My 31st wedding anniversary and I have remembered to send a card and to phone my good wife!

We wake to clear skies but irt was so cold. My sleeping bag was really damp from the condensation in the tent from the previous nights storm and sleep had been minimal. Packing up everything in the dark was painful and my fingers really hurt. Today was the first time I had got out the legwarmers and the arm warmers. I even put on the cheap little waterproof jacket I had bought in Eureka. As the sun came out a heavy mist covered our road out of town, We set off after a warm , though not necessary healthy breakfast with  concerns as to what lay ahead. We are also both a bit tense and edgy about our ability to maintain our scheduled finish date.

However as the day wore on things actually got better. The fog burned off really quickly, the day warmed up to  very comfortable riding conditions; the scenery and countryside was very enjoyable.  The only issue causing us both angst was which route to take – stick to the Official Trans Am or deviate to more direct but busier routes which may not be so safe. The agreed lunch stop was at Farmington but on the way I stop at a gas station and see the following sign on a coffee machine (I hate to say it but US coffee is by and large just aweful!) but I had to try the  pumpkin spice.  It tasted good but it was not coffee.

At Farmington tensions are running high but we receive collective advise from a number of independent sources that all say, :leave the Trans Am for a while and follow Route 32 to St Genieve where there are a number of hotels and we will then be able to make educated choices the next morning.  It is agreed. Again I race ahead and secure a good cheap motel ($45 a double room or $22.50 each) We even get a spare room to hang out to dry all our wet camping gear, Only let down is no quality internet access again but we are used to that by now! Total  distance for the day 116klms.

Eating choices galore but we want steak and veggies and we are directed to the Old Brick House. It does us proud again at a good price washed down with  a few Bud Lites and Amberbacks

St. Genieve is evidently the oldest town west of the Mississippi, founded by the French and surrendered to the English and the Old Brick House is the oldest building. The whole old part of the town looked very interesting and it is a shame we did not hav more time to explore it.

Tensions are over as we have made the decisions about our routes and agendas. Tomorrow we are going to cross the mighty Mississippi into Illinois

Tuesday 27th September Up bright and early and thank goodness it is nowhere as near as cold as yesterday. More importantly and for the 1st time in the whole journey a strong and favourable tail wind that lasts all day. And what made it even better was that although we made several mistakes on direction during the day, every one turned out in our favour by either avoiding hard hills or by shortening the official route by several miles. Stu was very pleased.

So two highlights of the day. Obviously  the Mississipi, although we did not see it at its grandest (but then we would have to be along way soth for that)

and a super surprise.  As we arrive in the town of Chester we find that it is the home of Popeye the Sailorman. ha ha   Well we can’t go past the museum etc without popping in can we?  Talk about childhood memories and now presents for the grandkids

After that as we move on, I see a hair salon next to a bike shop and take the opportunity to get a haircut (first one in 2 months and long overdue!) whilst my Garmin, which had been playing up, is fixed at no cost  The lady cutting my hair (Spanish speaking) kept saying she wanted to make me look beautiful and ‘andsome. I tried to explain “you cannot make a silk purse out of a pig’s ear” or too late for miracles. She refused to understand! But I am sure my friends from WRCC will understand mission impossible.

So we make it to Marion Illonois( (125 Klms). This time Stuart goes ahead (whist i am having the hair cut) and books the hotel (same price again v good).It is  important for him to have I/T connectivity but again he is disappointed. However McDonalds is just down the road and thy have free wifi so we spend he next hour there pretending to drink their coffee etc whilst he updates his blog ha ha

Been a good day for both of us and it is inished with the best value buffet at Ryans Teak house. As much as you can eat and all very healthy even down to the no sugar added apple pie!

Stu reveals that his has a leg problem(maybe a trapped nerve that kicks in after about 4 hrs ride. We decide it maybe because he is trying too hard to catch me all day. So we decide that tomorrow he will set off about an hour ahead of me and then we have a chance of arriving at the agreed lunch point at the same time. It will take the pressure off him. This time we are crossing the Ohio River into Kentucky. For some reason we both believe it will be another ferry crossing and so that is the agrreed meeting point! Good night sleep needed as the journey is to be another 120+ klms.

Wednesday 28th September Bit dull and overcast and a few drops of drizzle at 7 as Stu leaves. I wait at Macca’s for an hour checking emails on their wifi and by then the drizzle ahd gone but remained a threat most of the day. But good roads and again tailwinds though not as strong as yesterday. The plan would have been perfect had Stuart not had to pop into a shop to buy cheap specs- he had misplaced his reading ones – and he did not leave his bike in an obvious place and so I whizz past him unknowingly. Hicup 1: Hiccup 2 is there is no ferry just this bloddy great steep incline bridge with no bike lane and awefully large expansion joints that could swallow a bike let alone a bike wheel. Hiccup 3 – no phone connectivity (again) so we cannot contact each other to double check. After waiting about 1/2 an hour for Stu I attack the bridge and at the last moment manage to avoid the expansion joints. Luck is on my side for I had no passing trucks as I cross and now enter Kentucky

Hiccup 4, the agreed lunch rest point does not exist and still no phone connectivity. Anyway I reach the agreed destination of Sebree by 2p.m. and still no contact from St until about 3.30 when we finally both have connectionadn he is only about 1/2 and hour away and more importantly he is feeling good. the paln of taking the pressure off him has worked even if evreything ealse was a stuff up!

As I ride into Sebree  notice that already the hallowe’en decorations are out even though it is not due until the end of Oct. I had not realized that it was such a big event . The two photos show the extent to which people will go in preparation. It is almost bigger than Christmas.

Tonight we are staying in the local First Baptist Church and hey ahve made us so welcome and evne provided us supper at no cost.

I usually like to finish the day with a couple of beers. This town has 7 churches or chapels but if I want a beer I have to ride 20 miles (32 kls) in either direction – we are again in a dry county!

Tomorrow morning we will be leaving behind most of Stu pannier bags behind to be collected by a relative and that should allow him to travel with me much more comfortably and allow us to put in more big days to get ahead of schedule.

My schedule is still 113th Oct but Stu wants to finish by 10th. We will see how it goes.